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Old 10-16-2009   #1 (permalink)
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Smile my TP experiment

Hi everyone. Its really nice to see a whole forum devoted to TP. I just found out about TP a little while ago and I'm planning some growth experiments on some indoor wheatgrass, radishes and spinach. I found this recipe on the web and was wondering if anyone else had tried it or something similar.

Gardening Australia - Fact Sheet: Pete’s Patch

The recipe:
Use one third of a standard bucket of pulverised wood charcoal

Half a cup of fish emulsion, half a cup of seaweed concentrate and 4 teaspoons of mixed, soluble trace elements all dissolved into 2-3 litres of water in a separate bucket to make a strong, nutrient concentrate.

Method:
1 Place the charcoal safely in a strong bag. Moisten a little for safety reasons. Use a hammer or similar implement to crush and pulverise it into a fine dust. Then place the dust into an extra-large bucket. Avoid inhaling the dust – you might wear a protective face mask or respirator.
2 Pour the fertiliser-based nutrient concentrate into the charcoal dust. Leave to soak for 3 days.
3 Then add one third of a bucketful each of dry river (pit) sand and ordinary soil (not clay). Mix together thoroughly.
4 Don’t use a stronger mixture than suggested.


I just started soaking my ground charcoal in my nutrient solution (which is 1/2 cup liquid seaweed, 1/2 cup fish emulsion and 4 tablespoons azomite rock dust). I am planning on adding the treated charcoal to a soil-less mix at 1 part charcoal to 2 parts soil. Does anyone have any suggestions or comments on this? Also, I will be taking pictures of my results and posting them on here.
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Old 10-16-2009   #2 (permalink)
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Re: my TP experiment

Welcome to Hypography!

I've never tried the nutrient bath idea, but I've had excellent results mixing 1 part charcoal to 5 parts potting soil. A mixture of 1:2 seems a bit high to me, but I've never tried. Let us know how it goes.


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Old 10-18-2009   #3 (permalink)
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Re: my TP experiment

Welcome bother TPer

Part of the Amazonian mix was clay shards.
I have been experimenting with Zeolite as a substitute.

Australian available Chars can vary from 7-9 pH.
The more alkaline the more problems I have had.


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Old 10-19-2009   #4 (permalink)
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Re: my TP experiment

Michaelangelica, when you say Australian Chars are you referring to the recipe that I posted? I never thought about checking the pH but I am certainly going to do that now.

I checked out the zeolite and I'm thinking that perlite might do the same thing but I'm not sure. Thanks to you and freeztar for the welcome.
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Old 10-19-2009   #5 (permalink)
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Re: my TP experiment

We're glad to have you onboard!

I highly recommend monitoring pH levels as they can change and will certainly affect growth, for better or worse.

I bought a pH meter off ebay for around $10US. It's not perfect, but it gets close enough for my purposes. You might have similar luck.

In any case, keep us informed. We are *always* interested to hear from fellow experimenters.


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Old 10-19-2009   #6 (permalink)
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Re: my TP experiment

Quote:
Originally Posted by roaldgold View Post
Michaelangelica, when you say Australian Chars are you referring to the recipe that I posted? I never thought about checking the pH but I am certainly going to do that now.

I checked out the zeolite and I'm thinking that perlite might do the same thing but I'm not sure. Thanks to you and freeztar for the welcome.
As I understand it, zeolite and perlite have quite different properties when used in soils. Zeolites can have high CEC and store and release nutrients like slow-release fertilizer and can take up to about 50-60% of their weight in water (although it varies depending on kind of zeolite). Perlite on the other hand has very low CEC but stores more water and air than zeolite.


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Old 10-19-2009   #7 (permalink)
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Re: my TP experiment

Quote:
Originally Posted by roaldgold View Post
Hi everyone. Its really nice to see a whole forum devoted to TP. I just found out about TP a little while ago and I'm planning some growth experiments on some indoor wheatgrass, radishes and spinach. I found this recipe on the web and was wondering if anyone else had tried it or something similar.
Spinach does well in biochar (and so does almost everything else). Watch your little seedlings sprout and grow really, really long rabbit ears.


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Teach a Wall Street banker how to build a fire and he'll be warm for the night. Set a Wall Street banker on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life.

Logic
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--Ambrose Bierce, The Devil's Dictionary
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #8 (permalink)
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Re: my TP experiment

Quote:
As I understand it, zeolite and perlite have quite different properties when used in soils. Zeolites can have high CEC and store and release nutrients like slow-release fertilizer and can take up to about 50-60% of their weight in water (although it varies depending on kind of zeolite). Perlite on the other hand has very low CEC but stores more water and air than zeolite.
Thanks for the info. What about vermiculite? Since I was going to just be adding my biochar to this soilless mix: ( Premier Horticulture – PRO-MIX growing mixes & Peat Moss: The ultimate growing performance ) I was wondering if I would need to add anything else. On that link you can see the contents of the mix. Also, can you see any problems I might have using this stuff with my biochar?
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #9 (permalink)
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Re: my TP experiment

Quote:
Originally Posted by roaldgold View Post
Thanks for the info. What about vermiculite? Since I was going to just be adding my biochar to this soilless mix: ( Premier Horticulture – PRO-MIX growing mixes & Peat Moss: The ultimate growing performance ) I was wondering if I would need to add anything else. On that link you can see the contents of the mix. Also, can you see any problems I might have using this stuff with my biochar?
Vermiculite has high CEC and water-retention properties and should promote the growth of plants very well. It's used in a lot of mixes and to amend soil. But it's drawback is that it tends to degrade after several months to a year to a clay goo, and this can cause a deterioration in soil structure, texture, and porosity. Peat moss is similar, in that it has high CEC, good water-holding abilities, etc. but degrades after a few months. It is superb for sprouting seeds, though. If you use more granulated or chunky biochar, that might not be a problem, as it will help with structure and air. Perlite usually doesn't degrade for years, so that's why it's used often in potting mixes and hydroponics.

I think since you doped the charcoal before hand, it should be loaded and ready to go. I would probably add some rock dust to make sure mineral and inorganic nutrient needs are met or more sturdy organic material, like shredded bark, to maintain soil structure and to provide material for humus. Biochar mixes usually get better with age, as the media develops more complexity and soil microbes increase.


----------------
Teach a Wall Street banker how to build a fire and he'll be warm for the night. Set a Wall Street banker on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life.

Logic
The art of thinking and reasoning in strict accordance with the limitations and incapacities of the human misunderstanding.
--Ambrose Bierce, The Devil's Dictionary

Last edited by maikeru; 4 Weeks Ago at 11:18 PM..
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