| | #1 (permalink) | |
| Thinking | Building a Deck Hey all, I am designing a deck and I have two basic issues: 1. I believe from a footer you can have a 3 foot over hang? 2. How far from a burried propane tank should a footer be? I did find a few webpages with some good info but did not answer all my questios. Txs | |
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| | #2 (permalink) | ||
| Tittle ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Quote:
2. Contact your city and/or propane supplier for the applicable codes. I never ran across buried propane tanks either, so that may be a legal violation in itself. Better to hire a licensed contractor when you have so little experience/knowledge. Your mistakes are likely to cost way more than what you think is the contractor's "unreasonable", "outrageous" price. ---------------- ![]() | ||
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| | #3 (permalink) | ||
| Doing the Impossible | Re: Building a Deck Quote:
An option that one of my neighbors took was to buy a prefabricated kit from a local lumber store. He built a beautiful 16x20 deck off the back of his house. Most of the sood was precut. And it had plans for everything. The lumber store knew all the local regulations and helped him make sure he was compliant. It was a good experience for him and it is a great deck. Or you can do like I did and think up a design, buy the wood, and build it. I chose to pour a slab instead of individual foundations for the posts. I have the deck sitting on the slab, and used concrete fasteners to insure it stays where I put it. It is not fastened to the house, so I didn't need a permit (at least were I live). Let us know how it turns out! Bill ---------------- aka TheBigDog - Hypography Full Freaking Moderator Become a Hypography sponsor! The truth is incontravertible; malice may attack it, ignorance may deride it, but in the end there it is. - Winston Churchill TheBigDog's recommended reading: The Science of Success - Charles G. Koch A neutron goes into a bar and asks the bartender, "How much for a beer?" The bartender replies, "For you, no charge." | ||
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| | #4 (permalink) | |
| Thinking | Re: Building a Deck thanks for the replies. I will contact the county people and such. Also I have to submit drawings and the like. But just wanted to get some ideas down and draw a few sketches to see if i liked what i saw. I do have people lined up to build i for me. But really did not want to involve them till i had a better idea of what I wanted and if what i wanted was doable. The main part of the deck (current idea) would be about a 25 foot octagon. FYI, the propane tank is buried and is legal and supposed to be safer.. | |
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| | #5 (permalink) | ||
| Tittle ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Quote:
PS Do you plan to lay your joists radially or in the standard parallel array? ---------------- ![]() | ||
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| | #6 (permalink) | |
| Thinking | Re: Building a Deck I was thinking to lay them radially; supports around the outside and one (or more) big one in the center. But I will have to have someone check to see if it is code. One side will be attached to (i believe the term is) a ledger on the house. Is there an advantage for the joists to be radially over parallel? btw txs for the input | |
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| | #7 (permalink) | ||
| Tittle ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Quote:
My pleasure. Ledger is correct terminology for a joist attached to the building, yes. For an octagonal deck as you describe the radial arrangement is superior. In the parallel layout you end up with no support for a cantalevered edge where the joists run parallel to the edge & you require piers for support. I liked the suggestion to look for (or at least at) premanufactured deck kits; lots of varieties and engineered by, well, engineers.---------------- ![]() | ||
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| | #8 (permalink) | |
| Creating | Re: Building a Deck yeah, also check what kinda of material you're using.Use a harder wood for better durability and sag resistance. The problem with a radial layout on the supports is that the decking will have to be mitered and meet at the joists, where if you use a standard crossing pattern for joists/flooring you have a relatively even support structure. I'd personally reccomend you follow the basic requirements for a 'bungalow' or one-story house for a durable addition. This "may" include pouring a pad for basic rigid structure, or drilling piers into the ground, depending on your environment. | |
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My pleasure. Ledger is correct terminology for a joist attached to the building, yes. 







